Cruise control inop ошибка

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syava

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Вернуться в «Диагностика и устранение неисправностей»

Так что для того чтобы круиз снова заработал, как положено, необходимо заменить лампу в стоп-сигнале. Кстати, круиз-контроль перестает работать не только в случае нажатия педали тормоза или при перегорании лампы стоп-сигнала. Вот еще список причин, по которым система круиз-контроля не включается:

 Не работает стоп-сигнал
 Обнаружена ошибка двигателя, связанная с системой круиз-контроля (на приборке горит значок «Чек двигателя»)
 Скорость автомобиля менее 40 км/ч
 Коробка передач находится в положении P (Стоянка), R (Задний ход), N (Нейтраль) или 1-я передача
 Низкие обороты двигателя
 Высокие обороты двигателя 
 Скорость автомобиля слишком большая
 Напряжение в бортовой сети находится между 6 и 16 В
 Срабатывание систем АBS/TCS (ESP/Система курсовой устойчивости)
 Перегорел предохранитель стоп-сигналов

Всем доброго времени суток
Заметил неисправность только после покупки авто. При попытке включить КК или ОС на бортовом выдает сообщение Проконтролировать КК или ОС (дословный перевод с итальянского) после многих попыток заметил что КК иногда на пару секунд включался (загорася зеленый индикатор на панели) но потом выдавал ошибку. Чисто случайно заметил, что это связано с углом поворота руля, когда попробовал включить ОС на парковке (авто не двигалось), тоесть при повернутом руле вправо или влево и КК и ОС включается и кнопки на руле работают, но стоит выставить руль в нулевое положение как выбивает ошибку. Перелистал кучу форумов но такой же проблемы не нашел. Диагностировать пока нечем, ELM адаптер только на следующей неделе придет. Из догадок
1 подрулевой шлейф, но странно что работает во всем диапазоне поворота руля как вправо так и в лево кроме центрального положения руля +- 5 градусов
2 нашел что есть датчик положения руля, но пишут что если он не исправен то обычно присутствует ошибка ESP, а у меня как бы никаких ошибок БК не выдает

P.S. Вопрос решен, Pyren показал что есть обрыв в цепи. Думал снять шлейф и попробовать восстановить. Снял кожух ссзади руля, отстегнул фишки, чтоб не сигналить когда снимаешь подушку (клемы с аккумулятора не снимал) и тогда уже подушку безопасности.

Сначала прозвонил контакты кнопок и оказалось что одна жила давала повышенное сопротивоение а когда руль выставлял в 0° и вообще обрыв. Когда отстегивал фишки то обратил внимание что много свободных пинов (использовались только 4 из 9)

и пришла в голову идея просто перекинуть пины надломленной жили на свободную рабочую жилу шлейфа, вызвонил тестером, перекинул контакт в фишке под подушкой

и в фишке за рулём

и о чудо, всё заработало🥳

• Не работает круиз-контроль
• Неустойчивая работа спидометра / одометра
• Контрольная лампа круиз-контроля мигает или не отвечает
• Другие сохраненные коды

Каковы некоторые из распространенных причин появления кода?

Причины появления этого кода могут включать:

• Неисправный многофункциональный переключатель
• Плохой серводвигатель круиз-контроля
• Обрыв или короткое замыкание в цепи круиз-контроля
• Неисправный модуль круиз-контроля, PCM или ошибка программирования

Каковы некоторые шаги по устранению неполадок P0585?

Если рассматриваемый автомобиль оснащен системой управления дроссельной заслонкой с электроприводом и соответствующие коды сохранены, диагностируйте и отремонтируйте их, прежде чем пытаться диагностировать P0585.

Если коды датчика положения дроссельной заслонки (TPS) сохранены, они также должны быть диагностированы и отремонтированы, прежде чем диагностировать этот код.

Для диагностики кода P0585 потребуются диагностический сканер, цифровой вольт / омметр (DVOM) и источник информации о транспортном средстве.

После визуального осмотра проводки и разъемов системы круиз-контроля подключите сканер к диагностическому порту автомобиля и получите все сохраненные коды и данные о стоп-кадре. Запишите эту информацию, поскольку она может оказаться полезной по мере развития вашего диагноза. Очистите коды и выполните тестовую поездку на автомобиле в обычном режиме, пока PCM не перейдет в режим готовности или не сбросит P0585. Если первое происходит, у вас периодическое состояние, и, возможно, потребуется его усугубление, прежде чем можно будет поставить успешный диагноз. Если код сброшен, продолжайте диагностику.

Используя свой источник информации о транспортном средстве, получите процедуры и спецификации тестирования компонентов, диагностические блок-схемы, виды лицевых поверхностей разъемов, электрические схемы и схемы контактов разъемов. Эти элементы понадобятся для диагностики большинства кодов.

1. 
   

   mmcmahan2206 [OP]
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   Matt

   McCall, Idaho

   Vehicle:

   00 Tacoma SR5 TRD 3.4L

   6″ FabTech suspension 3″ body lift, 35×12.50R15 BFG AT T/A KO tires, Mickey Thompson Sidebiter wheels, 4:88 front and rear gears, e-locker, «grey wire mod,» Hella driving lights retroed to 55w 8000K HIDs, custom grill, Downey chrome air intake w/ AEM filter, AirAid throttle body spacer, Flowmaster exhaust, Alpine audio w/ 12″ RF sub, racing bucket seats, black powdercoated toolbox, smoked out black taillights, black headlamps and corners, red LED interior lights, sway bar removed, rear shock relocation, u-bolt flip mod, 01 center console, Relentless Fab front plate bumper, LED fog lights.

   

   Cruise Control INOP… HELP!!!
   Anyone having trouble with their cruise control? I used to be able to just push the cruise button, which would get the cruise light to illuminate, and if it wouldn’t set when I pushed down to set it, I would just pull up on the clutch since it sags slightly and doesn’t always allow the switch to engage. That wasn’t a big deal, and nothing to complain about.
   BUT NOW, my cruise control completely is inoperative. When I push the on/off button, the cruise light doesn’t even illuminate now. I’ve checked all fuses, which all are good, and I’m tempted to check all wires, relay, and the switch itself.

   Does anyone have any advise before I start tearing into things?!?

2. 
   

   mmcmahan2206 [OP]
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   765

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   Matt

   McCall, Idaho

   Vehicle:

   00 Tacoma SR5 TRD 3.4L

   6″ FabTech suspension 3″ body lift, 35×12.50R15 BFG AT T/A KO tires, Mickey Thompson Sidebiter wheels, 4:88 front and rear gears, e-locker, «grey wire mod,» Hella driving lights retroed to 55w 8000K HIDs, custom grill, Downey chrome air intake w/ AEM filter, AirAid throttle body spacer, Flowmaster exhaust, Alpine audio w/ 12″ RF sub, racing bucket seats, black powdercoated toolbox, smoked out black taillights, black headlamps and corners, red LED interior lights, sway bar removed, rear shock relocation, u-bolt flip mod, 01 center console, Relentless Fab front plate bumper, LED fog lights.

   

   Has anyone else ran into this same problem, or am I the only one here?

3. Its acting like the control switch might be the problem. The «Cruise Light» will stay on (on my taco) even if the clutch is pressed. Here is the install instructions for the cruise control with the pin info http://oem-auto-accessory.com/cruise/2009tacoma%2Cm.pdf When I have read out one of the switches, its digital, you only get an ohm reading from the switch. To turn it on, XXX ohms, set speed, XXX ohms, etc. Hope this helps.

4. 
   

   mmcmahan2206 [OP]
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   Joined:

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   Messages:

   765

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   Matt

   McCall, Idaho

   Vehicle:

   00 Tacoma SR5 TRD 3.4L

   6″ FabTech suspension 3″ body lift, 35×12.50R15 BFG AT T/A KO tires, Mickey Thompson Sidebiter wheels, 4:88 front and rear gears, e-locker, «grey wire mod,» Hella driving lights retroed to 55w 8000K HIDs, custom grill, Downey chrome air intake w/ AEM filter, AirAid throttle body spacer, Flowmaster exhaust, Alpine audio w/ 12″ RF sub, racing bucket seats, black powdercoated toolbox, smoked out black taillights, black headlamps and corners, red LED interior lights, sway bar removed, rear shock relocation, u-bolt flip mod, 01 center console, Relentless Fab front plate bumper, LED fog lights.

   

   I think it’s the switch, too (and REALLY hoping it’s not the CCM). But I don’t really feel like tearing apart the steering wheel to test the switch! I’ve gone thru and made sure that the brake switch and clutch switch weren’t a part of this issue, and also checked the ground, and all is good. So it’s kinda starting to look like it’s either the Cruise Control Module or the switch itself. FML…
   I’ll keep digging, and hopefully figure this out… But anyone that can post any helpful info would be greatly appreciated!

5. 
   

   mmcmahan2206 [OP]
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   Matt

   McCall, Idaho

   Vehicle:

   00 Tacoma SR5 TRD 3.4L

   6″ FabTech suspension 3″ body lift, 35×12.50R15 BFG AT T/A KO tires, Mickey Thompson Sidebiter wheels, 4:88 front and rear gears, e-locker, «grey wire mod,» Hella driving lights retroed to 55w 8000K HIDs, custom grill, Downey chrome air intake w/ AEM filter, AirAid throttle body spacer, Flowmaster exhaust, Alpine audio w/ 12″ RF sub, racing bucket seats, black powdercoated toolbox, smoked out black taillights, black headlamps and corners, red LED interior lights, sway bar removed, rear shock relocation, u-bolt flip mod, 01 center console, Relentless Fab front plate bumper, LED fog lights.

   

6. 
   

   nswsparky
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   Chad

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   ’03 TRD, SAS, ARB’s F/R, Atlas 4 speed

   D44, SAS, 3 link coilovers, ARB’s, Ford 8.8, Atlas 4 speed, cutting brakes.

   check the e-brake if it does not go in all the way it will make the cruse inoperable.

7. 
   

   mmcmahan2206 [OP]
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   765

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   Matt

   McCall, Idaho

   Vehicle:

   00 Tacoma SR5 TRD 3.4L

   6″ FabTech suspension 3″ body lift, 35×12.50R15 BFG AT T/A KO tires, Mickey Thompson Sidebiter wheels, 4:88 front and rear gears, e-locker, «grey wire mod,» Hella driving lights retroed to 55w 8000K HIDs, custom grill, Downey chrome air intake w/ AEM filter, AirAid throttle body spacer, Flowmaster exhaust, Alpine audio w/ 12″ RF sub, racing bucket seats, black powdercoated toolbox, smoked out black taillights, black headlamps and corners, red LED interior lights, sway bar removed, rear shock relocation, u-bolt flip mod, 01 center console, Relentless Fab front plate bumper, LED fog lights.

   

   True… but it wouldn’t cause my airbag light to come on and horn to stop working. And the «BRAKE» light would come on as soon as any contact was made, which it is not, so I think my e-brake is out of the question on this one. Thanks, tho!

8. 
   

   mmcmahan2206 [OP]
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   Joined:

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   Messages:

   765

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   Matt

   McCall, Idaho

   Vehicle:

   00 Tacoma SR5 TRD 3.4L

   6″ FabTech suspension 3″ body lift, 35×12.50R15 BFG AT T/A KO tires, Mickey Thompson Sidebiter wheels, 4:88 front and rear gears, e-locker, «grey wire mod,» Hella driving lights retroed to 55w 8000K HIDs, custom grill, Downey chrome air intake w/ AEM filter, AirAid throttle body spacer, Flowmaster exhaust, Alpine audio w/ 12″ RF sub, racing bucket seats, black powdercoated toolbox, smoked out black taillights, black headlamps and corners, red LED interior lights, sway bar removed, rear shock relocation, u-bolt flip mod, 01 center console, Relentless Fab front plate bumper, LED fog lights.

   

9. For the record: Brake switch, clutch switch, cruise switch, clock spring need to be checked when there is a cruise problem.
   FYI, next time you have a problem, list everyting that is going on. By not telling us your airbag light was on and the horn didn’t work, we had to guess. Those symptoms pinpoint the clockspring as the culprit.

10. 
    

    mmcmahan2206 [OP]
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    765

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    Matt

    McCall, Idaho

    Vehicle:

    00 Tacoma SR5 TRD 3.4L

    6″ FabTech suspension 3″ body lift, 35×12.50R15 BFG AT T/A KO tires, Mickey Thompson Sidebiter wheels, 4:88 front and rear gears, e-locker, «grey wire mod,» Hella driving lights retroed to 55w 8000K HIDs, custom grill, Downey chrome air intake w/ AEM filter, AirAid throttle body spacer, Flowmaster exhaust, Alpine audio w/ 12″ RF sub, racing bucket seats, black powdercoated toolbox, smoked out black taillights, black headlamps and corners, red LED interior lights, sway bar removed, rear shock relocation, u-bolt flip mod, 01 center console, Relentless Fab front plate bumper, LED fog lights.

    

    Well I listed the problem as it happened. At first, it was only the cruise control. No other issues were there… yet. THEN the horn and the airbaglight came on, and that made it a no brainer! So I listed everything that was going on and did tell all symptoms. Pretty easy to diag once the horn became inop and airbag light came on! Thanks, tho!

11. 
    

    undysworld
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    Paul

    Wisconsin

    Vehicle:

    02 SR5 TRD 4×4 XCab 5-sp 4-cyl 2-dog 1-oldman

    I need help.

    I was off-road in my 2002 Tacoma tonight, and I hit the cruise control lever with my leg. It went ‘snap’, and now the cruise won’t engage. (I know it’s a dumb mistake to have made, but I can’t feel my leg due to an old diving accident.)

    The green CRUISE light lights up, but it won’t actually turn on. I need to disassemble the steering wheel and see what I’ve broken.

    I’ve been searching, but I’ve not found the answer yet. I’ll keep searching, but if anybody out here can help, it’d be appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Paul

12. 
    

    tan4x4
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    Rick

    Folsom, CA

    Vehicle:

    99 Tacoma EC 4×4 2.7L Auto

    Bilsteins,
    OME 881’s,
    3-leaf AAL,
    Detroit TruTrac,
    Tundra brake swap,
    Michelin LTX AT2,
    Tranny skidplate,
    TC skidplate,
    CBI rear bumper,
    TG sliders,
    UltraGauge,
    PowerTank,
    Reverse Camera

    So …. you broke the cruise lever with your leg and now the CC doesn’t work.
    What is your question? Replace the broken part.

13. 
    

    Rich91710
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    Rich

    Los Angeles

    Vehicle:

    08 Base

    Satoshi with FJ badge, factory cruise, factory intermittent wipers, Redline Tuning hood-lift struts, Hellwig Swaybar, Rosen DVD-Nav

    He’s posted a couple of times… he needs instruction on how to get to the cruise stalk to replace it.

    I was looking at some drawings on the 99 and it looks like it’s on the fixed part of the column by the ignition switch, but I have a 2nd Gen and I can’t find an assembly drawing that’s clear enough to offer him any help.

14. 
    

    undysworld
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    Rick,

    Sorry, I guess I wasn’t too clear on my question. How do I get to that broken switch to replace it, without destroying everything to get to it?

    Rich,

    Thanks, I do need help in figuring out how to get to the broken switch to replace it. I tried several times to figure out how to download the manual, but whatever link existed seems to be gone. I’ve managed to find a thread which mentioned removing 2 screws, so maybe that’s all there is to it.

    I’m not entirely mechanically-stupid, I’ve done a full frame-off restore on my CJ-5. But I’m apprehensive about getting into the air-bag. Hell, my first car didn’t even have seat belts.

    I’m pretty sure I can get to it by myself, and then fix whatever plastic tabs and slots broke when I did something stupid. But I was hoping someone here might have boldly gone before, and that I could learn from those wiser than I. Any help will be most appreciated.

15. Disconnect negative battery cable, wait 15 min., push the two side covers in(one has the cc stalk coming out of it), remove two torx screws, remove airbag. The cc stalk has a couple screws and a connector. $100ish online toyotapartscheap.com, or I think there was a link on here for Camelback. They were cheap too.

    Do not allow anything to touch the airbag connector!

16. 
    

    undysworld
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    Thanks very much Skytower!
    Paul

17. 
    

    Rich91710
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    Rich

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    Satoshi with FJ badge, factory cruise, factory intermittent wipers, Redline Tuning hood-lift struts, Hellwig Swaybar, Rosen DVD-Nav

    That’s true for the 2nd Gen… is his 99 the same with the stalk on the wheel itself? The parts diagram appears that it is on the column itself near the ignition switch.

18. 
    

    TwoStickTrick
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    Wes

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    All Stock Baby

    My Cruise light illuminates but it does not set speed when pushing down on the stalk. My airbag SRS light is on too. My buddy said the horn sounded weak so I just replaced the clockspring with a used one that was sent to me. The horn may sound better, I dont really know because i just got the truck so I am not used to it. The CC light still illuminates and the SRS light is still on. I have an airbag assembly ECU as well which I may put in to solve the SRS light.

    How can I Volt/Resistance test the CC stalk to make sure it is still working? I checked the clutch switch and i believe it works. I believe the only switch I saw similar for the brake was if the brake is pushed in to the floor